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Travel Blog # 25- Rwanda to Lake Bunyoni

Location

South Africa
1° 16' 27.5124" S, 29° 56' 35.6532" E
We left the Gorillas in Rwanda and after a painless border crossing at Merama Hill we were in Uganda. Immediately the roads deteriorated and it started raining. To make matters worse we had to get over a mountain pass to get to Lake Bunyonyi.
 
And if that wasn’t enough they were also widening the pass so it was mud all the way. Four wheel drive, diff lock the whole nine yards.
 
 
 
Road was just wide enough at places for one vehicle so passing was a nightmare. One wrong move and you are down the mountain.
 
 
 
Beautiful Ugandan scenery. One can feel you are getting close to the equator.
 
 
 
Uganda is just one huge fruit and vegetable garden.
 
 
 
More villages and farms.
 
 
 
Finally Lake Bunyonyi.
 
 
 
We camped at the Overland Camp right on the lake. The best setting we have so far on our trip. It had nice facilities, hot water and a restaurant and pub. It is very popular with the overland campers.
 
 
 
View from our camp site.
 
 
 
Our camp site. I was wondering why my tool box was getting heavier only to realize it was half full of rain water. Everything just stays wet.

Travel Blog no.24- Gorillas in Rwanda

Location

South Africa
1° 27' 58.7124" S, 29° 30' 46.3752" E

This travel blog is dedicated to our very good friend Meryl Rivers who is recovering from a major back operation in Johannesburg. We hope you enjoy the photos and we wish you a speedy recovery.

 

 We headed for the town called Kiniki in Parc des Volcans where the ORTN National Parks offices are and from where we will depart to the gorillas.

 
 
We set up camp on the lawns of the Kinigi Lodge which is ideally situated only about 500mtrs from the ORTN Offices. Once again camping is an add-on with very poor facilities. Fortunately they were not busy so they allowed us to use the bathroom of one of the rooms.
 
 
 
The following morning was a 5:30 start to be at the offices at 6:30 to check in.
 
 
 
The Gorilla Trackers getting their early morning briefing from the head warden. Everything was well organized and hot coffee was laid on. We all got put into groups according to the distance you are prepared to trek after the gorillas and which group you would like to see. There are only 15 groups of gorillas in the Rwandan mountains. Seven of them they allow visits by tourists and 8 of them are for research. The groups have different number of gorillas in each group and are spread out all over the different mountains. The group we were going to trek was called Susa, one dominant silver back in the group who is the leader, a female with the youngest baby of all the groups and in total 28 gorillas.
 
 
 
 
Our guide for the day was Edward. He takes you all the way up to the gorillas. The guards in the mountain that protect the gorillas are in radio contact with him all the time and guide him to where they are. Today the group we are going to track are at about 3000mtrs which means we will have to climb about a 1000mtrs from where we park our car.
 
 
 
It is about an hour’s drive from the offices to the bottom of the mountain.
 
 
 
Beautiful lush valleys on the way to the mountain.
 
 
 
You park your car in a village and then start the climb up the mountain. The first half an hour you pass lots of locals farming potatoes etc. Everyone is very friendly and lots of waving and smiles as you pass their houses.
 
 
 
Little girl en route to the gorillas.
 
 
 
They all wanted their picture taken.
 
 
 
Walking towards the mountains.
 
 
 
The stone wall was built to keep the buffaloes out of the local’s farms. We were told it will be about an hour’s climb from this point to the gorillas.
 
 
 
At the lower end of the mountain one passes through huge bamboo fields. The gorillas eat the young shoots which form part of their diet.
 
 
 
The bamboo came in very handy to hang to as it was very muddy and we slipping and sliding all over the place.
 
 
 
Some of rain forests one passes through on the way to the top of the mountain.
 
 
 
Toni in the thick vegetation one has to get through.
 
 
 
Stinging nettles all over the place.
 
 
 
The first sign that we were getting close to the gorillas – fresh gorilla phoo…..
 
 
 
When you reach the gorillas you are met with the guards who watch over the gorillas 24 hours a day. They are all very polite and well trained. Part of their job is to remove snares which the poachers set for the buffaloes. The gorillas sometimes to get snared instead of the buffaloes in the process. You leave your back packs with them and then you proceed towards the gorillas with only your camera.
 
 
 
We were fortunate that it was nice and sunny and they were eating in a nice open patch where we could get a good view of all of them.
 
 
 
The leader, a huge silver back.
 
 
 
The leader.
 
 
 
Another huge male.
 
 
 
 
Spreading for the cameras.
 
 
 
 
One of the black backs. They only become silver backs at adult stage.
 
 
 
As small as he is he can already take on a typical fierce silver back pose.
 
 
 
One of the young ones. The gorilla’s finger print is the markings on his nose. The whole group has been photographed individually and ‘nose printed’.
 
 
 
 
The mother with her baby of 8 months. The gestation period is the same as for humans, 9 months. Her son at her side is 4 years old. Gorillas can have up to 6 babies in a life time and they live to between 30 and 45 years.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Baby catching a ride on her mother’s back.
 
 
 
Beating his chest for the cameras.
 
 
 
Another pose.
 
 
 
They started to move further upwards which means the group coming to check them out the next day will have to climb further.
 
 
 
Once they start moving they all move.
 
 
 
Youngster climbing a tree.
 
Well, was in worth to pay $500 per person to see 28 of the last remaining 700 mountain gorillas in the world? Every dollar.
 
We are now off to Kampala, Uganda and then on to Addis, Ethiopia. We will post more blogs once we are there. Internet cafe's are hot, grubby, old computers, slow and irratic connections so updating these travel blogs require a lot of effort. Hope you enjoy them.
 

Travel Blog #23- Genocide Memorials

Location

South Africa
2° 5' 49.1136" S, 30° 4' 44.1696" E
In 1994 the ongoing conflict between the Hutus end the Tutsis erupted on an incomprehensible scale. More than 800,000 Rwandese were killed in just 3 months mostly by gangs and youths armed with machetes, guns and other weapons.
During the genocide, many horrific massacres around the country took place in churches to which victims fled in the hope of refuge.
 
Nyatama – Catholic Church about 30kms south of Kigali.
The church has not been touched since the bodies have been removed more than a decade ago.
 
 
 







A guide showed us around and gave us a brief story as to the events. Here we are outside where some of the victims that could be identified are buried.

 
 
More than 10,000 Tutsis took refuge inside the church. The locked themselves but the gate was blown open with a hand grenade.
 
 
Holes in the church roof.
 
 
Skulls of some of the victims on display as you enter.
 
 
 
More remains.
 
 
 
Evidence of some of the horrific deaths.
 
 
 
This is the remains of a beautiful Tutsi girl who was raped by 50 men and then killed by thrusting a long sharp stone up into her.
 
 
 
More remains on display.
 
 
 
The blood stained clothes of all the victims have been stacked on the church benches.
 
 
 
The main section of the church. There were too many to be killed with traditional weapons so they hurled hand grenades into the crowd.
 
 
 
All the children were gathered into the back section of the church. There they chopped off their hands and legs and then sent them to go and find their parents, if they were still alive and show them what they look like.
 
 
 
Outside are 2 tombs where all the remains of the 10,000 people that were killed are kept. Before going into the tombs, we observed a minute of silence as respect.
 
 
 
Some of the remains that could be identified are in coffins.
 
 
 
The rest are just stacked in rows upon rows.
 
 
 
Evidence of some of the brutal deaths.
 
 
 
More skulls and bones.
 
 
 
Tonia Locatelli
 
 
 

Ntarama Genocide Memorial about 25kms outside Kigali
 
Not on such a grand scale as Nyatama but not less impressive.
 
 
 
 
Here also about 5,000 Tutsis took refuge in the Catholic Church. Some evidence as the walls were blown open with hand grenades.
 
 
 
Skulls on display showing what horrific deaths they must have had.
 
 
 
More skulls and bones on display.
 
 
 
More bones.
 
 
 
Skulls and bones. Thousands upon thousands on display.
 
 
 
Some personal effects.
 
 
 
The Sunday school section where all the kids were killed. Blood stains still visible on the back wall as they were thrown against the walls.
 
 
 
The kitchen where more people were killed.
 
 
 
The victims in the kitchen were burnt alive. It has been left untouched since the Genocide. Our guide is on the left.
 
 
 
The Holy Section where the priests were also blown open. They were also not spared.


All in all it was a very sad day but interesting day.
 
Rwanda has done a remarkable job of getting back onto its feet. It has achieved an impressive degree of stability and security in a very short time, albeit with considerable help from a guilty international community that ignored the country in its darkest hour.
 
The International Criminal Tribunal for Rwanda was established in Arusha, Tanzania, in 1994 to bring to justice former government and military officials for the acts of genocide.
 
Several big fish have been sentenced and the prisons are still overflowing with smaller fish.
We are now off to Parc National des Volcans to do some gorilla tracking. Another $1,000….

  

 

Travel Blog #22- Kigali

Location

South Africa
1° 55' 55.1064" S, 30° 2' 49.8408" E
We crossed from Tanzania into Rwanda at the Rusumo Falls border gate. We caused a minor stir leaving the border. We let rip for Kigali and saw everyone waving at us only to realize we were driving on the wrong side of the road. They drive on the right side in Rwanda.
 
 
 
Welcome to Le Pays des Milles Collines, Land of a thousand hills, Kigali, sprawled over hills and valleys.
 
 
 
The Prado is not looking so good anymore but still going strong. It has been in diff lock and 4 wheel drive more than ever before.
 
 
 
Minus one left back mud flap. The colorful wrap with all the little flags from Firefox is really doing its job. Not only is it a talking point at the endless police blocks but also protecting the Prado.
 
 
 
Our little room at the Auberge La Caverne in Kigali. Not bad for about $20 a day.
 
 
 
Kigali.

Travel Blog #21- Biharamulo to Kigali

Location

South Africa
2° 22' 28.9236" S, 30° 47' 1.2876" E
From Biharamulo we were straight on our way to Rwanda, Kigali.
 
 
 
 
The border crossing at the Rusumo falls was painless. We were immediately struck by the friendliness of the Rwandan border officials. Tanzania was a tough country. It is huge and everyone is poor and battling to make a living.
 
 
 
We were immediately struck by the lush vegetation. Lots of bananas and you name it. The country just looks fertile and abundance of food.
 
 
 
The houses have beautiful gardens and everything is just ‘growing’.
 
 
 
Colorful houses en route to Kigali.
 
 
 
Neat houses.
 
 
 
Lush vegetation.
 
 
 
Finally, Kigali. Everyone is greeting and waving and very friendly.


I got up at 5 this morning to do these damn travel blogs. We will find an Internet café this morning so that I can upload them to HambaCairo.com
 
We went for something to eat last night in town and walked the few block there and back from our hotel. We felt very safe and it is hard to imagine that country was devastated during the genocide in 1994.
 
We will visit the memorials today and then tomorrow, Friday, on to the gorillas.
 
The next travel blog update will prbably only be when we are in Kampala in a weeks time or so.

 

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